Wednesday, February 18, 2009
NYC Fashion Week: Day 6
PROENZA SCHOULER (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Lazaro and Jack marry two of my favorite things: rich, succulent fabrics and great, functional American sportswear.
Hated It: I'm mad about the structure of the coat in look 1, but it's not very practical on a day with big gusts of wind. Also, looks 18-20 were not engineered for the bustier lot of us.
J. MENDEL (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: I think even a few PETA members can admit to themselves, albeit in secret, that a lot of pieces in this presentation are truly lovely.
Hated It: While plenty of young things can wear J. Mendel well, this is one of those lines that a more sophisticated and mature woman can pull off even better.
DOO.RI (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: I always expect the best in draping and pleating techniques from this 2006 Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winner.
Hated It: But on a couple of occasions (looks 4 and 9), it was a bit much for one, singular outfit.
ANNA SUI (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Even if one doesn't consider herself an Anna Sui girl—who happens to be a very specific type of girl—one can still appreciate the juxtaposition of trippy prints. She may have picked up where Ossie Clark (the man, not the current line) and Zandra Rhodes left off in the early Seventies.
Hated It: 50 looks Anna? Come on now. We don't have that kind of time. A collection of this size runs the risk of repetition.
ALEXANDRE HERCHOVITCH (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: In a similar printy vein as Ms. Sui, Herchovitch is fearless in terms of mixing apparently oppositional patterns with each other.
Hated It: I'm going to pass on the long shorts with the baggy leggings of look 6. There's no way this would work in Herchovitch's native São Paulo.
CARMEN MARC VALVO (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: My kind of show: only the necessary pieces.
Hated It: I wish Mr. Valvo had decided on all mannequins or all living, breathing models. The two live modesl seem like a last minute decision.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: A huge bravo to Oscar for using models in a rainbow of shades! And who doesn't like a lady in rich, beautiful fabrics?
Hated It: Come on Oscar. You too?! 51 looks? Are you and Anna in cahoots?