Tuesday, February 17, 2009
NYC Fashion Week: Day 5
It's almost over folks. Soon we'll be packing our bags for Europe. Well, not me specifically. I've got classes and a bevy of clients to tend to. But by Day 5 you know the drill. Zorro in Z Formation is a good thing; Hated It, not so much.
TEMPERLEY LONDON (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: I grew accustomed to flow and floral from Alice Temperley. But remember, the Style Therapist is adaptable to change. This fall collection was more restrained and pulled in. I'd never poo poo structure.
Hated It: I think there should be a cap on how many looks can be shown. This isn't just directed towards Ms. T. Any designer exhibiting over 20 looks is overdoing it. Just have the models walk slower. Which editor or buyer out there is crying out for more looks that don't add anything to the line? I'd prefer a concise, well curated show with just the right pieces than a collection with several "what those doing there?" looks.
BADGLEY MISCHKA (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: I used to see these guys walking along 14th Street (the kind of unsavory bit between Sixth and Seventh Aves.) often back in the day; but that's neither here no there, as they say. We're in 2009 now. Keeping it ladylike is a good thing. That beautiful gown (look 21) in Yves Klein blue would be perfect for when I accept the Style Therapist of the Year Award...although that sleeve could be thinner.
Hated It: Take it easy with the gold lamé, guys. All things in moderation. Remember, if that accent decides to abandon the "e", it become lame gold.
RODARTE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: There's something to be said about the sisters Mulleavy growing up in Pasadena. I've never visited the city, but I'm sure it's a lovely place. However, it's not on most people's "visit here before death" list. When a creative person comes from an environment that's not on par with New York or Paris or London in an aesthetic sense, they're forced to rely on something innate. It's tangent time! The sisters collections have been some of the most forward-thinking of any designer(s) in the past decade. Like Miuccia Prada or Marc Jacobs, sometimes their vision can be overwhelming upon first glance. But when revisited later, it's easier to digest.
Hated It: Be cautious of the dreadlocked sweater (looks 12 and 13). It's liable to get caught in something you don't want it to. And there goes your sweater.
DEREK LAM (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: What a marvelous variety of pants: trousers, skinnies, leather; etc. And those shoes really are the business. Even the muted colors are succulent. Keep doing what you do Derek.
Hated It: Again, here's one of those shows where it's difficult to find fault. Ok, ok. The waist in look 29 is suspect. I'm sure that model doesn't go beyond 25" or 26" in that area. But it came across as Al Bundyesque from where I'm sitting.
BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: While I would have liked to see more separates showcased, Ms. Sarafpour does structured, ladylike dresses well.
Hated It: Some variety in the dresses would have been nice. After look number 10 it the collection began to verge on redundancy.
DENNIS BASSO (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: DB is about rich, luxe skins in modern, wearable shapes.
Hated It: Some pieces can look like roadkill. And wearing two animals at once (looks 11 and 12) can be a bit much. Not for PETA sympathizers.