Fashion week can be a lot to handle. So in the spirit of Blaine Edwards and Antoine Merriweather, I've devised a concise system for managing the Fall 2009 shows this week.
A Zorro Snap in a Z Formation is my opinion in the affirmative, and Hated It is self-explanatory.
ACNE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Beautiful, structured cocktail frocks and slenderizing blazers.
Hated It: See-thru pants are for pervy exhibitionists who don't mind a bit of sweat.
BCBG MAX AZRIA (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Great fabric manipulation in pleating details, folds; etc. Fluid dresses; built-up shoulders; smart use of color and print (bold without being loud).
Hated It: Beware of velvet.
YIGAL AZROUEL (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation:
Hated It: Although quite beautiful, for continuity purposes, this would have probably worked better as two separate shows. Some looks were very architectural, while others were more fluid and billowy. Some pieces were even elliptical. It's not that all of these can't co-exist within the same collection, but there must be some common denominator.
CHARLOTTE RONSON (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: The Style Therapist loves a built-up shoulder (look 30). Come back Dynasty!
Hated It: About 10 looks too many. Could have been curated better. Certain looks don't add to the story and feel more like filler (looks 5 and 10).
RACHEL COMEY (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Interesting shapes infused with pop colors and lively florals.
Hated It: Eclectic mix with a strong point-of-view that's not for everybody nor every body.
VERA WANG LAVENDER LABEL (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Various body types could pull off these looks. The Style Therapist is an advocate for egalitarian clothing.
Hated It: Do NOT take look #9 literally. Please wear a slip!
ABAETE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Modernized classics in lovely fabrics.
Hated It: Color story was only slightly more exciting than a container of wheat germ.
TSE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Like a favorite cashmere throw luxed up in beautiful, sharp pieces. And did I mention the lovely, sturdy shoulders?
Hated It: Cashmere helmets weren't meant to protect the head from trauma.
PETER SOM (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Som understands the importance of the waist in creating a silhouette; daring prints and bold use of color.
Hated It: The frequent bell silhouette is not for the hip-averse.
LYN DEVON (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: It bears repeating that structure is a Style Therapy favorite. If you've got cottage cheese body parts, structure is your best friend. Plus, that purple is fire!
Hated It: Outside of Palm Beach, floral pants have limited appeal.
RACHEL ROY (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: I love RR for being one of the first young designers to embrace the polished, young lady PRE-Mad Men.
Hated It: The hair and makeup is a little close to my main man's Stefano Pilati's look for Yves Saint Laurent a year ago. Also, this is not the RR I'm used to for the reasons above. It's fine to evolve, but don't lose veer too far of course.
JENNI KAYNE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Clean, simple, and refined.
Hated It: Some of these looks seem recycled from recent seasons past (note look 5 and 18).
MONIQUE LHUILLIER (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Both ethereal and grounded at the same time. I usually say toss your ripped hose out the door, but in this case, it's a part of the theme. Clever.
Hated It: Don't wear any of these to a wedding unless you're deliberately attempting to upstage the bride.
CHRISTIAN COTA (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: The most interesting use of shape and texture so far. Not one look to incite a yawn in this grouping.
Hated It: Here's a show I had difficulty finding fault in. But the model in look 14 seems like she's had enough of the photographer telling her to make love to the camera.
CUSHNIE ET OCHS (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Structure and fluidity done the right way. There's no disconnect between the looks. Well curated.
Hated It: Look 2 is not for everyone. In fact, it's not for most.
NICOLE MILLER (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: One can never have too many dresses. It's great, lazy, minimal-step dressing.
Hated It: I hope those square toed boots were borrowed.
RAG & BONE (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: This is another design firm that has a strong point-of-view and has maintained their original menswear-inspired aesthetic. Each season they create the most modernly classic blazers.
Hated It: I'm going to pass on the superfluous ties in the pants. It creates a stumpy effect.
SHIPLEY & HALMOS (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Remnants of this duo's prepped out Trovata roots can be seen; but I appreciate its subtlety. This shows they've evolved while maintaining the integrity of their original aesthetic.
Hated It: We don't really need a turtleneck under EVERYTHING, do we?
STAERK (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: The Style Therapist is bananas for menswear inspired done right without being too literal. Is that Fatima Siad from Cycle 10 of ANTM in look 6?
Hated It: I had a jumpsuit very similar to look 10. But I was 9 and that was back in the late 80s. This outfit is best left in reruns of Full House and Small Wonder.
JASON WU (view the show)
Zorro Snap in Z Formation: Anyone who dresses the divine Ms. O is ok with me. Marvelous updated classics with chic details.
Hated It: Careful now Jason. Look number 25 seems awfully familiar. Right Oscar?
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