What a Waist

I own a vintage, dirndl-style Yves Saint Laurent skirt that's one of the most cherished items in my wardrobe. It's from the designer's Spring 1980 Rive Gauche collection and it's constructed from a beautiful black cotton that's simultaneously sturdy and soft.

One would think, once you go ready-to-wear you never go back, but there's a little thing called cost of living in NYC. So I make due with what I have. One day very soon though...

The skirt is exactly the size of my waist—no bigger, no smaller. I'd been wearing it all morning two Fridays ago, and up until lunch time, I was quite comfortable. However, I stuffed an entire platter of Indian food down my throat. Let's not forget that nan expands once it settles into your digestive system...or at least it feels like that. Some bubbles from a bottle of San Pellegrino helped, but that didn't cure my overstuffed feeling.

Later that night I met up with Jess to see Fat City at Film Forum. After the film we noticed David Byrne in the lobby. And to strike up a conversation, I thanked him for all of his Brazilian Luaka Bop releases and kept it moving. Perhaps one day Mr. Byrne will be thanking me for spreading the Style Therapy message to the masses?

In any case, Jess and I (sans David Byrne) headed to El Paso on West Houston for dinner. Who does Indian and Mexican in span of 6 hours? Your Style Therapist, that's who. After downing the most beautiful chimichanga I've seen in a while, I began to feel the repercussions. You know those pregnant women who are in denial and insist on wearing their pre-baby bump clothes and belts tightened to conceal their condition? That's how I felt. How my skirt made it home without ripping at the seams is a miracle.

My natural waist had expanded by a good 3", and mind you, there's no elasticity, whatsoever, in my favorite skirt. The only casualty was a button that had been a little dangly prior to my gluttony. This is a cautionary tale to all of my beautiful clients. Please, when wearing your more more choice pieces that can't be replaced, stay away from the curry vindaloo.

Is Label-less Worth Less?

I own the loveliest Martin Margiela grey sweatshirt. I love you sweet sweatshirt! I wear it quite often and in a world of different ways. It's no secret how much I adore the staff at the Maison on Greenwich Street and how I enjoy the deals at Century 21. But at the end of day, when all of the work is done and the kids are tucked away, it's just a simple grey sweatshirt.

For some time the label has been dangling by dint of a loose thread on the back of the pullover. I'm not a good sewer, not even in the rudimentary sense of the word. So when it falls, it's gone. But I often wonder, my beautiful people, is a Margiela (or any other designer piece) worth any less without the label to identify it. On a consignment or resale level, absolutely. The store buyer and the potential customers have no way of knowing if something is made by a specific designer without documentation—the label.

I don't foresee myself parting with this plain, little number any time soon. But even in the quiet of my own closet, do the labels matter. I'm afraid I have to answer in the affirmative. I pride myself on not being a label-whore in the most obvious sense. You know the type, LV, F, GG, and CC plastered all over bags, jackets, sneakers, visors, and umbrellas. But I'm no better than they are. I just keep my label obsession/complex under wraps. Literally. I do, however, have some vintage Gucci bags that I carry on occassion. (Check out works by artists Peter Gronquist and Tom Sachs for more on fetishization and consumerism.)

From birth we're all about validation. Whether we're getting high-fives from dad for receiving high marks on our report card or hearing mom brag about how pretty we are to her friends, we're reminded that our self-worth is quantifiable. Some folks manifest it differently. A Maseratti does the trick for the recently signed rapper, while getting that corner office is just what the father-of-three in the suburbs needs to feel special.

I'm certainly not saying that if I were stripped of all my sartorial goodies I would instantly perish. I've got some clothing hanging in my closet that's on the bottom rung in terms of designer hierarchy. Mystique and Necessary Clothing in SoHo anyone? No doubt there's an issue of quality, but that label still has a powerful presence no matter how ill-fitting or well-made the garment is. And on some level, I have to dress a certain way to attract more clients for Style Therapy. But there's one thing we must remember. I don't mean to get all Joel Osteen, but God doesn't love us any less if we wear Mystique instead of Margiela or shop at Filene's instead of Fendi. And the Style Therapist doesn't love any less either. ((Hugs))

When You Take A Picture of Yourself...

My beautiful people, when you take a picture of yourself, please remember to crop your arm out of the picture. We've all taken personal snapshots for either a laugh or do to sheer boredom. But I would argue that at times, self-picture-taking is akin to talking to yourself; but that's not what this post's about. We're talking about self-branding.

I can't tell you how many Facebook profiles contain a large batch of people either snapping themselves in the mirror (the lowest of the low) or stretching out their arms and quickly taking a shot. In both cases, the subject can come across as being vain. Whether you are or not is beside the point. Others have taken pictures, with camera in full-view, of an outfit or haircut they thought was cute. Ain't no shame in that game. If you think you're cute, document it. But you lose cool points for doing it yourself...or at least clearly showing to the world that you're doing it yourself.

We live in a time of digital cameras. We're able to easily set these on timers, run to our spot, and make it look like a friend or loved one was so enamored of us that they had to take a picture straight away. But when you've got the camera in plain view? (Shaking head)

Come on beautiful people. Let's get ourselves together and stop being so obvious about it. Until we do have that friend or loved one at hand to snap a picture, set that timer! And if you can't set the timer, crop your arm out of the picture!

Birthday Wish/Birthday Present

Birthdays only come once a year, so it's imperative that the wishes made are important ones. It is my wish that you all bring your A-game: when you go to the bodega for a quart of milk, when you have a presentation before the board of trustees, and when you bump into your crush at Danceteria. Despite the recession, there are options.

If you were born between January 20 and February 18, you get Aquarius 30% discount off of a CLOSET DETOX—a phenomenal deal that Oprah, Jennifer Anniston, and Christie Brinkley can utilize. If you fall under the other eleven astrological signs, no need to fret. There's the popular CAPSULE COLLECTION service that many people have found incredibly helpful. With a wardrobe foundation, the possibilities are endless. We've all brought our C-game long enough. The C-game is average. It's the year of the ox. It's time to be above average!

New Service for 2009: $10 CAPSULE COLLECTION

For most of you, this is your first day back at work. You've eaten a lot of treats, downed some sauce, and danced the jig, jit, and dutty wine. What most of you haven't done is worked on bringing your A-game. You still have the same closet with the same ratio: you wear 20% of your clothing 80% of the time.

On January 20, Barack Obama will be sworn in as our forty-fourth president. His platform is change. You need to make that yours as well. The start of a new year brings with it a time of purging the old. That includes those MC Hammer pants you STILL haven't gotten rid of. Every time you reach for them to throw them out, they mutter, "Can't touch this."

I have a new service for those of you who need quick and inexpensive advice. Some of you are saying "$10?! I can't spend $10 on some advice!" Your other therapist gets $100 an hour to listen to you talk about yourself. I'm helping you for a lot less than that. Those daily lunches with your coworkers cost in excess of $10. What are you left with? Some good gossip, yes, but for the most part, indigestion, gas and an angry boss because you took more than an hour.

With a CAPSULE COLLECTION, I'll give you all the fundamental pieces you need in a wardrobe in order to bring your A-game. All of the suggestions I e-mail to you will be live on various e-commerce sites at the time you receive the collection. If you wait too long, sale items may have already sold out. Also, keep in mind people, these are just suggestions. If you don't have the capital now, simply use my advice as a guideline for when you do. New mommies, you really need to consider this. You may not have the time for a CLOSET DETOX, but at least this way, you still have access to STYLE THERAPY.

Here's what the CAPSULE COLLECTION service consists of:

1. Log on to your Paypal account, click on the "Send money" tab and type "advice@swstyletherapy.com" in the "To" box, and "10.00" in the "Amount" box.

2. E-mail me at simone@swstyletherapy.com with a color headshot and full-body of yourself. I need to see your figure/physique, as well as your coloring to determine the best silhouettes, patterns, fabrics and colors for you. Also include some information about yourself to give me an idea about your lifestyle. It can range from what you do for a living to your favorite designers and places to shop.

3. Due to the high volume of queries, responses may take up to 12 hours, but I'll get them to you as quickly as possible. Client satisfaction guaranteed!

What to Buy on the Cusp of a Recession: Ladies

If you're not feeling the pinch yet, hopefully you'll be spared. For those of us who do have to cut back, it's time to get savvy regarding what we purchase. If you live here in New York, or any other metropolitan city, chances are that wearing the same thing everyday isn't an option. We want to look sophisticated and chic; never dated. So wardrobe replenishment is of the essence. I'm not advocating foregoing your utility bill in order to snag that Lanvin Pollison bag at Barney's for $2565. That would be utter madness. You'd have to see a professional to get over that problem. But there are elements that freshen up even the most fatigued of closets.

As it's now autumn, the time has come to consider pieces that can take you well into the spring. *All of these items were available during the time of publishing:

1. Coat-The line of a coat is imperative. People can see you coming from a mile away; and you don't want to look like a lumpy hot mess. Remember the Style Therapy adage: neatness counts. The less bulk, the better. Find outerwear that can work overtime. You can wear it to work, a lovely dinner afterwards, and (because it's not too precious), running errands on the weekend. Here are two options at different price points: Hopefully you have a nice amount of savings and Skip drinks with friends this Thursday

2. Boots-Even if you're accustomed to taking cabs, being in New York can entail a great deal of walking. Shoes must be comfortable. I don't cosign on the suffering for fashion philosophy. I find that line of thinking to be laced with claptrap and twaddle. There's no sense in limping around in beautiful shoes; especially when they are capable of creating bunions and corns. Here are two options at different price points: and All of the bills are paid up (including student loans) and Skip lunch with your work buddy for a couple of weeks. You don't like her anyway, you just feel like a loser eating alone.

3. Sweater Coat - This is a marvelous item to include in your wardrobe because it is a key piece for wardrobe efficiency. It can be worn as outerwear during early autumn or, when belted, can double as a dress. The sweater coat is also a great piece for layering when the operations people at your job can't make up their minds regarding the thermostat. Here are two options at different price points: You're independently wealthy and You have to borrow a little cash from your work buddy who you don't really like, but you'll pay her back during neck pay cycle

4. Statement Jewelry - Nothing resuscitates a top better than a striking necklace. Remember to keep scale in mind; you don't want to walk around looking like a pin-head. But if you've got a head on the larger size, you don't want the chain to get lost in the midst of your massive dome either. Proportion. Proportion. Proportion. Here are two options at different price points: No one gets any presents this holiday season (or next), you're cutting off the cable indefinitely, you've got a big bonus coming up and you can do without a cellphone and You're canceling your subscription to The Economist and eating ramen for a while

5. Blazer - My favorite thing in the whole world. I plan on being buried, or cremated rather, while wearing one. They're slimming and polish off anything you happen to have one. Watch out for where the bottom of the blazer falls. A cropped jacket can magnify the hippier among us. And for our boy shaped friends, a line that's straight up and down can does nothing for the figure. Here are two options at different price points: Robbing banks isn't so bad if you don't get caught and If you wake up late for a week, you can skip that daily breakfast at Pastis

High/Low: Style Therapy Hero #1

As I've stated many times, both on this blog and to many of my clients, it's not always about the label. A defining characteristic of a true stylemaster is the ability to mix high and low items effortlessly. My favorite Style Therapy hero does just that; I'll refer to her as Clara Wang.

I remember Clara when she was a student at Parsons and I was Tim Gunn's assistant. Years ago, during my undergrad years at university, most students had a default outfit for class. Boys and girls alike wore flared jeans and oversized sweatshirts. For bar night, they'd keep the jeans and trade-up to a tight shirt and platform boots (boys and girls alike here, too). They were essentially mixing low and lower. At Parsons, the design students did not mess around. Even though they were doing labor intensive work around the clock, for the most part, they understood the importance of looking sharp. I think they were inadvertently motivating one another not to be slobs. They remain the best turned-out people I've ever worked with.

Yet, Clara Wang always stood out. I can't overestimate the importance of the word POLISHED. I'm not referring to the overdone, talking-head anchor look. Being polished is more organic and personal. The hair is neat, without being stiff. Makeup is applied with a steady hand, not caked on. Clothing is pressed, clean and tailored. There are just the right amount of accessories, and it never jingles and jangles when walking. It's a modern elegance.

Clara Wang was special because she made this ladylike aesthetic her own. When other people her age were slumming it in heavily whiskered jeans and tattoo t-shirts, she exeduded quiet elegance. But that's not why CW is a Style Therapy Hero. Once, when she was an intern in the design department of the contemporary label we both worked for, I commented on a blouse she was wearing. It was an off-white silk number with interesting pleating at the neckline. I assumed it was Doo Ri or Philip Lim. When she told me she had picked it up at the thrift store for $7, I was floored. She used her design background to tailor the sleeves a bit, but the integrity of the shirt was in tact.

Another time, we'd met up with some other Parsons/contemporary clothing brand friends for brunch. Naturally, Clara was styled beautifully. She wore what I believed to have been the Yves Saint Laurent Tribute sandals. I was left astounded, once again, when she revealed that they'd been picked up from Bakers, which is kind of like Kinney.

Clara Wang has that uncanny ability to style herself through instinct. I believe that's something one is either born with or picks up from a very early age. Sure, she owns beautiful pieces by PRADA, Saint Laurent, the aforementioned Doo Ri, and other higher end designers. But to wear head-to-toe designer intentionally can wreak of fashion victimhood. There's a level of insecurity if one relies on the runways to dictate their every move and poo poos anything they deem beneath them. In fact, there's a word for that in the Style Therapy Book of Diseases: Labelwhoritis. You may know someone who has it, or suffer from it yourself. I had a brief, but acute, case of it back in the summer of 2002.

I applaud Clara for her bold take on fashion. She knows what she likes. She knows what works on her. And she's not afraid to integrate a Chanel bag with a secondhand shirt. This is true, original style. She never has to worry about looking dated, unlike the desperate fashion victims who wouldn't be caught dead at a Kinney or a Zara. And there's nothing wrong with insisting on good, quality pieces. But to insist on a name is another thing entirely. I, for one, proudly position my YSL pumps next to my Aldo boots in my closet. There's never any shame in a good high and low Style Therapy game.